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ThermalTake Shark Mod
"Cause sometimes pretty just isn't good enough, take two."

Oct 5.2005 by Dave "Marauder" Kratky

* Please note that this page may take a while to load, it's got a pile of images on it. *

Last March we did some modifications on a ThermalTake Tsunami case and so when the long suffering Tsunami was replaced with the Shark on our test right last month we decided to continue the tradition and mod out the Shark a little bit. What started it all was a desire to have the new case look a little more unique and to be a touch quieter. I decided that closing off the side grilles with a piece of plexiglass would be a good start and perhaps some more lights and some paint. So a week ago I stripped the Shark down and started the process of prettying it up some.

For comparison, here's the before.


And from the side.


What we used for this mod:

• Small Philips (star) screw driver and an adjustable wrench (To get the side lock off)
• Paint and primer
• Fine sandpaper
• Plexiglass/Lexan
• A power drill (Hmmmm.. Torque.)
• A metal file
• A hot glue gun
• A bank of Sunbeam laser LEDs
• A Sunbeam 8" blue cold cathode light
• Utility knife
• Plexiglass knife
• Brass bolts, washers and nuts (To retain the side panel)
• Soldering iron
• Lots and lots of time
• Lots and lots of Coffee

The case was fairly easy to disassemble. There's a series of screws on the back of the case door, we just removed all of them and set them aside. Some of them were different lengths so we separated them into containers and marked what plates they came out of. When taken apart the front has thirteen screws, an upper bezel, lower bezel, a chrome grille from the lower bezel, two vertical plates and four horizontal "scales" from the bottom. The side panel was easy to disassemble as well, once you remove the locking plate and the lock itself the bezel just pops off. The only thing that had to be taped off for painting was the latch for the side panel.


Latch pretty. Must tape latch.


Once zee taping was done we put a layer of primer on everything that was getting painted and let it dry overnight.

Things in life aren't always black and white.. but this case is.


And then we put on the first coat of paint... Hmmmm.. Spray paint good. I was thinking of using a metallic paint but I wasn't sure how it would look against the flat back of the case so we went with straight red gloss.


Soon my pretty you will be complete!


It took a week of putting on coats of paint, then screwing the job up, sanding and repainting, but in the end I think it was worth it. It was very very hard to not just assemble the case to see how it looked but I forced myself to be patient. We did four coats of paint and waited a day between coats. After letting the paint cure for three days I put on the clear coat and left it to dry on the racks at work.


Everyone's favorite time: Power tools time!
 

While the paint was drying I measured out and drilled the notches for the side panel. Since the side bezel locks on it needed some square notches. Not having a square drill I just marked out the holes and drilled around them with a small drill bit then knocked out the blanks and used my handy dandy metal file to smooth the notches into what I wanted. When we assembled the door and put the locking mechanism back on we needed to do a few more cuts and some smoothing out to get room for everything to work properly, but we were really close. As a note I used a drill bit that was too big to start and shattered some plexi I didn't want shattered. I then switched to a very small bit and drilled many more holes. Luckily it worked out fine even with a little extra material removed and the little cracks that are still in the window are hidden behind the bezel.


It fits! Bwhahahah!


After we got the side panel all cut and the clear coat finished it's drying we were ready for assembly. Everything was very shiny and I couldn't wait to put it all together and see how it looked.

Assemble us! Assemble us!


Before we assembled the parts I spliced into the wiring for the existing light on the front of the case and wired in the laser LEDs that were to light the front panel up a little more. After the LEDs failed to light I checked the voltage. It's three volts. We need twelve. Damn it. Oh well no big deal. I soldered the cut wires back together and got some cat5 cable, soldered it into the laser LED wire then into the original 4 pin power plug as an extension. I ran the cable along the existing LED power cable, into the case and plugged it into the power supply. I also loosened up the screw that retained the original LED at an angle and aimed it straight up. Then.... It was time to put everything together and see how it looked.

Rj-45 cable as a power extension for the lights? Sure why not?

New front LEDs, now with 100% more electrical tape and solder!


The side panel assembly and mounting of the panel went quite well with no screw ups or scratches on the paint. It was a little tough to get the bezel back on and it required some prying and gentle shoving but it eventually clipped in. I used brass machine screws and washers to hold the plexiglass on as: A) They''ll hold a heck of a lot better than double sided tape, which was my first thought and B) They look really good. I'm sort of like a crow in that I like bright shiny gold colored things. As mentioned above I had to make a few more small cuts into the plexi to allow the side locking bar to work properly. Once assembled the side door looked great. Time for the front assembly.

Du'oh. Had to cut more material out to allow the locking bar on the left free motion.

Note use of soft paper to prevent scuffing of nice paint.

Flawless victory. After assembling the front bezels and plates and getting the LEDs into position (and hot gluing them in) I was messing with an extra piece of plexi and thought it might look good in the front of the case between the upper and lower plates. The original plan was to put in a small lego space man and curve some plexi to fit the hole nicely, but there just isn't enough room in there for the lego guy, and I couldn't get the plexi to curve right. So in the name of laziness I just dropped the plexi down into the front of the case and cut it to the right height and it actually looks pretty darned good, especially when it's all lit. I'll let the below photo gallery speak for itself. Sorry for the sometimes slightly blurry photos, my hands aren't the steadiest with a camera.










I'm somewhat suprised that the case turned out as well as it did, but I'm quite pleased that is did. And it wasn't really that hard, just a bit time consuming. I'm glad I forced myself to be patient and just take my time and wait for things to get done and be careful. I've now got myself a really unique looking Thermal Take Shark case for that next LAN. And as for the fan noise, the case is now noticeably quieter than it was with the side grille open. Quiet is good.

Total cost for the mod: (retail pricing, Canadian dollars) $106.00

Sunbeam cold cathode light (Blue): $18
Sunbeam laser LED: $10
Walmart hot glue gun: $10
Painters tape: $5
Paint brushes: $7
Sandpaper: $9
Primer: $12
Red paint: $6
Brass bolts/washers/nuts: $2
Plexi: $15
Plexi knife: $12
Other tools: Already had.
Tim Horton's Double Double Coffee: $2/ea